When trying a sample of the Momotombo Chocolate Factory’s chocolates at the Chocolate Salon, I instantly found it a unique experience. Unique, too, that the company is right out of Nicaragua, using cacao grown in the country. Their symbol is the Momotombo Volcano of Nicaragua. What made the difference on just that first taste I got is that they make their chocolate “handcrafted directly from raw unprocessed forest grown cacao beans.” Instead of all the usual processing, the beans are just lightly roasted before grinding.
Of course, I picked out the assorted box to take away. The nine chocolates in it are all of a rather decent size, looking much like Christmas ornaments in their bright colors. They have an almost cake-like texture, dense and soft. It’s just a tad dusty, but in a fitting way. Also very rich and chocolaty. Primal, you could say.
I was a little disappointed in not knowing what all the flavors are, even while staring at the list on the website. It can be disconcerting for such large and untamed chocolates to become mystery truffles. That aside, however, they’re quite interesting.
My first was the red-wrapped one, which unsurprisingly contained chili. The strength is just right as this chocolate won’t let even strong chili overwhelm it. There were also an orange and a mango chocolate, whose flavors went into the very fabric of the chocolate. It’s great that fresh ingredients, down to the fruit, are used, though I admit I’m personally not the keenest on pieces of fruit in my chocolate.
In silver was a coffee chocolate, which turned out quite strong, though this is probably necessary in order to taste the coffee at all. And it does end up a nice combination.
If you’re wondering, the sesame seed-covered chocolate seemed to have peanuts inside, which I wouldn’t expect, but how can I be guessing wrong about peanuts? The three flavors together give a new and not unpleasant meaning to nut-filled chocolate.
I never thought I would say this, but the Toasted Coconut (the other not foil-wrapped) turned out my favorite. The coconut felt like a kindred spirit with this chocolate: both are strong, earthy, a bit rough, and holding their own sweetness.
If the flavors are right for you, these chocolates can take you up and away. Don’t think of them as “raw,” think of them as “of the earth,” and if that phrase appeals to you, do give them a try if you get the chance. (They’re working right now on expanding to the North American market, so you may have to be patient).
As Dom mentioned, we’ve been given the whole Organic Seed & Bean bar range to review. This 37% cocoa milk chocolate bar is made with 77% Fairtrade ingredients, all of which are also organically produced.
At 37% cocoa it’s richer than your average milk chocolate, and using clementine oil rather than orange means that the citrus flavours are less aggressive and work better with the chocolate flavours. The wrapper describes the clementine oil as ‘delightful’ and the chocolate as ‘soothing and warming’. I’d prefer to describe the clementine as ‘bright’ or ‘vibrant’ – it’s noticeable the second this chocolate hits your palate, but it’s a lot softer and more subtle than other chocolate/orange combinations I have tasted. This means that the taste of the chocolate is never obliterated by the citrussy high notes – probably quite important if you’re making a more upmarket, organic chocolate bar.
As for the chocolate, it’s quite full flavoured, creamy and sweet. In short, everything milk chocolate lovers want really. After a week eating almost exclusively dark chocolate my first piece was a bit of a shock, but over the course of a couple of hours (and a few pieces) I realised just how far at the other end of the scale my palate had been working. It’s a well rounded product in which all the elements come together to give a very interesting whole.
I’ve had tangerine and clementine in chocolate before, and it’s become a personal preference. The flavours are much less brash than orange oil chocolate, and I prefer to have the citrus hovering delicately alongside the chocolate rather than taking it over. These bars cost a little more than say a supermarket’s own branded premium chocolate, but not so much that you may find yourself questioning making a purchase (especially when you consider that EVERYTHING in these bars is organic, and most of it Fairly Traded). ethical chocolate lovers should definitely check out Seed & Bean’s products.
Mr Ramsey
Finchley
London
Mrs Minnie Walker
173 New Bond Street
London
1st February 1878
My Dearest Mrs Walker
I do hope this note finds you in good health. It has been some time since we last corresponded, but Mme. Charbonnel informed me of your recent dalliance with the arts and I felt strongly that it warranted a response!
It pleases me greatly that you have found a new leisure activity. An interest in artistic endeavours is surely an admirable pursuit! But I confess it confuses my mind as to why you have elected to distract yourself from your work in this way, when there are urgent matters at hand.
Mme. Charbonnel took the liberty of forwarding your latest etchings to my home. They are creations of beauty, of that there can be no doubt! I was, though, at a loss to explain the horse, and your view of the Thames is rather gloomy. Perhaps it represents the cloud that seems to have risen between us of late?
I do not wish to force your hand, my dear, but it must be said that I am concerned about our future. Your demeanour and look has always pleased my eye, but you must move with the times! A gentleman would never judge a lady on appearance alone, but I fear in your mind, that is all you believe you have to offer.
It is clear to me that you could be so much more, if only you were to spend your time more wisely. An outsider may assume you were using your beauty to cover the inner turmoil you feel. Fine attire will not bring a lady closer to the kingdom of heaven when her heart is so heavy with sadness.
I beg of you Mrs Walker, be true to yourself!
I am, ever your friend,
Mr Ramsey
Etching Gallery
My point? These new “art bars” from Charbonnel et Walker, are below-average chocolate of unspecified origin, packaged in boxes that have random paintings from the National Gallery on them. While not particularly expensive at £4 per bar, they’re really nothing more than novelty items aimed at tourists.
Charbonnel have a great brand and a lot of history, but no real focus on quality or innovation. Nothing I’ve seen from them lately has led me to believe they’ll be around in another hundred years and that makes me a little sad.
In case you weren’t aware (in which case there’s a good chance you’re male and possibly single) Valentines Day will soon be upon us once again, and chocolate manufacturers all over the world have been getting the heart shaped moulds out and investing in all things pink. James Hutchins is no exception, and this little box of ten pink hearts is one of his Valentines offerings.
This slender little box contains ten pieces arranged in pairs in petits fours cases. There’s no indication of cocoa content on the packaging, just a list of ingredients which begins with ‘sugar’ and includes cocoa butter and 5% freeze dried raspberries (but doesn’t include any nasties, I hasten to add). I liked the slight marbling effect on each heart as it gives them an individual feel.
When it came to the tasting I was surprised at how sweet these little hearts are. I know I don;t have a big sweet tooth, but these things were shockingly sweet at first bite. The raspberries do go some way towards cutting that sweetness, but they’re vastly outgunned by the white chocolate. Yes, these are indeed sweethearts. Once the white chocolate has melted away you’re left with another potentially off-putting texture to deal with – raspberry seeds. Because whole freeze dried raspberries were used, the seeds remain in the mix.
You’re either going to be unconcerned by this, or you may find it intensely irritating, because that’s what having a small clump of raspberry seeds will do.
As is my wont I took them out with me and tried them on a few self-confessed chocolate lovers, and the first reaction was almost universal – everyone commented on how sweet they were. Only one other person mentioned not liking the raspberry seeds, so perhaps that’s not such a big issue, but making these hearts so sweet means they’re definitely not to everyone’s taste. Having said that, at £4 a box they’re quite likely to be bought by the younger lover, and as we know the palate changes over time so such a sweet confection might have more appeal.
James Chocolates are clearly making reasonably priced chocolates with interesting ingredients at reasonable prices, and when you look at the packaging, presentation and ingredients they compare well (and sometimes completely outdo) other companies with similarly marketed products. For example, I would much rather someone gave me some James Chocolate than anything from say one of the big manufacturers or Kshocolat. That said. I couldn’t possibly have eaten more of these hearts than was required for tasting purposes. They really are that sweet.
These hearts (and most of his other products) are available from the James Chocolates web site, as well as numerous other stores including John Lewis.
