One of the best parts of Paul A. Young’s new Soho shop is the huge basement kitchen which extends under two neighbouring shops. That not only allows Paul and his expanding team to make more chocolates, but also gives him more room to experiment and create new products, practically every week.
So where last week we had a Soreen Malt Loaf truffle (which Paul tells me are coming back), this week we have Bakewell Tart ‘dessert chocolate’ domes. Paul calls them dessert chocolates, because they’re big enough to eat as an entire dessert. Which is just how all chocolates should be, of course.
As you can see, the format is not very tart-like.
Paul has created a dark chocolate dome topped with toasted almonds. Inside is a marzipan ganache with more toasted almonds and a raspberry reduction base.
Sounds great, but these things are designed to be eaten rather than photographed, which is why mine looks a bit of a mess…
But we’re used to making a mess round here. It’s the taste that’s important, and it doesn’t disappoint. The ganache is fresh and soft, with just a hint of marzipan, and the raspberry reduction is sharp and fruity.
The almonds add a bit of a crunch and some flavour, but it’s the combination of fruit and marzipan ganache that really makes this for me.
The catch is that it doesn’t quite capture the essence of a real bakewell tart. Perhaps that’s because I’m so used to the idea of a cherry bakewell that the raspberry flavour doesn’t bring back quite the same childhood memories. Thorntons have a bakewell tart flavour chocolate coming out soon that really does capture that essence, albeit in a solid block of chocolate.
But regardless of how close it is to the real thing, this is another chocolate worth seeking out. Just make sure you have a napkin to hand when eating one, as they’re kind of messy to eat! And if you really like Bakewell Tart, stay tuned as we’ll be reviewing a completely different take on the old classic later this week!